Sea Glass in an Bottle

On March 18, 2017, in Garage Photography, by admin
Sea Glass in a Bottle

Sea Glass in a Bottle (click to enlarge)

This image shows sea glass in a bottle.  The sea glass comes from the beach at Scituate, Massachusetts.  The bottle was something we picked up at an antique shop somewhere along the way.

This is another garage studio project shot in my Fotodiox studio in a box.  I started shooting the bottle from the side as it is covered in imperfections and had that wavy appearance common to old panes of glass.  Given that the sea glass does not make much of a stack inside the bottle, shooting from the side did not accentuate the sea glass.

As I was moving the bottle around, I happened to look straight down the opening in the bottle.  This view presented several interesting elements of composition.  There is the round outline of the bottle itself, the imperfections and textures of the glass between the edge of the opening and the edge of the bottle, the blurred sea glass, the circular lip of the opening, and the sharply focused sea glass with their imperfections.

It is interesting that the bottle shows tints of the white, green, and brown sea glass depending on what area of the bottle you look at.  Those tints keep the eye moving as it tries to associate those times with something elsewhere in the image.

Sea glass in a bottle:  My garage

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Mickey Mouse Bokeh

On March 15, 2017, in Garage Photography, Photography Tips, by admin
Mickey Mouse Bokeh

Mickey Mouse Bokeh (click to enlarge)

A while back I saw a blog post about Mickey Mouse shaped bokeh.  I made a cut-out for my lens and used this technique during a trip to Disneyworld.  When I got home I put the cut-out away and forgot about it.

Looking for a weekend garage photography project, I noticed one of my wife’s Disney christmas ornaments.  I took a few images with a string of Christmas lights in the background.  The image looked okay, but the blue light bokeh in the background did not add much to the image.  I then remembered my Mickey Mouse bokeh cut-out and put that over my lens.

I used the set up shown in this blog post to capture this image.  In that post you can see the blue Christmas lights on a black background.  I used a focal length of 200mm which compressed the distance between the ornament and the Christmas lights in the image above.  I used two Pringles can snoots to light the ornament, one on each side above and behind the camera shining down on the ornament.

I spent some time trying to arrange the Christmas lights between images to get rid of blank spots.  I could never get the background lights quite right so I solved my problem during post-processing.  The image contains several bokeh mouse ears surrounded by black.  It was easy to use Photoshop’s Magic Wand Tool to select one mouse ear bokeh, copy it, then paste it into a blank spot.  I copied several different colors of mouse ear bokeh and solved my problem.

This was just a photography lighting exercise project, but I did learn some things.  One lesson I should have taken from flower macro photography is to always pick a perfect flower.  The same goes for Christmas ornaments.  Notice that the stars on the right ear are pretty crisp.  The stars on the left ear are not as crisp.  I spent some time trying to perfect my focus and just could not get the left ear sharp.  I looked very closely at the left ear and noticed the blur was a production issue and not a focus issue.

Next time we go to Disneyworld I will make sure everything my wife buys is macro-photography ready.  Just in case…

Disney Christmas Ornament Bokeh:  My Garage

Surfing around on some photography websites, I saw several places where people made a snoot for their flash using a Pringles can (like this one).  Having recently started working on garage photography projects, I figured I could use a few of these myself.  Wanting more flexibility out of my lights, I used a constant light source instead of building the snoot to fit my flash.

I went to Home Depot and bought the items shown on the left of the image:

  • 11 Watt LED bulb
  • A socket for the LED bulb (This is a normal light socket you see on most of your lamps)
  • A 12 foot extension cord

Adding a can of Pringle’s to the weekly grocery list completed the material list.

To prepare the Pringles can, trace the outline of the circular end of the socket on the plastic cap of the Pringles can and cut a hole for the socket.  I then cut off the bottom of the Pringle’s can using a hobby knife.  It was easy to run the blade of the hobby knife around the base of the can where cardboard meets metal.

I cut off the end of the extension cord where you normally plug in other cords.  I connected that end of the extension cord to the socket and pushed the socket through the hole in the plastic cap.

Screw in the LED bulb, snap the plastic cap/socket assembly on the Pringle’s can, and you have a great snoot.  On the right of the above image you see the finished project.  Later I added tape to the plastic cap to stop light from leaking out the end of the can with the plastic cap and socket (see image below).

It cost $11.99 for the material (not counting the can of Pringle’s) and less than 10 minutes to finish the project.  After I tried the light out on one of my garage photography projects, I immediately went and bought the material to build two more of them.

The great thing about the 11 Watt LED bulb is the lack of heat buildup when the LED light has been on for an extended period.  I spent several hours with the LED bulbs on and never had to worry about the Pringles can heating up.  This makes it easy to set up your shot without having to cool the lights every so often.

Below is the Pringles snoot in action.  I taped a dowel to the can, then used some small clamps to hold the dowel to a light stand.

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